Yves St. Laurent's Nod to Elsa Schiaparelli

For his Fall/Winter "Collection Shakespeare" of 1980, Yves St. Laurent paid tribute to literature by using references to various poets in a surrealistic manner.

The jacket shown above is embroidered with a line from Jean Cocteau's 1920's poem "Battierie". Translated, the line reads, "Sun, I am black inside and rose outside, which is the metamorphosis." The pink satin jacket is lined in black velvet and a crystal and sequined sun forms the collar.

This black coat is embroidered with the title of a poem by Apollinaire, "Tout Terriblement".

As part of the same collection, St. Laurent showed this blue velvet jacket embroidered with a pair of eyes and the words, "Les Yeux d'Elsa". Translated as "The Eyes of Elsa", the words are the title of a poem by Louis Aragon. However, St. Laurent also cleverly pays tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli with this jacket by taking inspiration from her Zodiac Collection of 1938-39.

This Schiaparelli jacket in blue velvet is embroidered with the signs of the zodiac, planets, and constellations.

Metropolitan Museum Costume Collection

And this Schiaparelli jacket from the same collection, is embroidered with gold starbursts. Do you see the inspiration?