1958 Lilly Dache Hat

Do I really need to say anything?

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #4

The final post in our series on correct foundation garments ends with a focus on sleek thighs. "Study the liquid lines of the dresses - they're newest in soft, covered-up wools for day-into-party wear. The brilliant red colorings (not for the timid) and subtly revealing cut (nice for the shapely) demand the firmest sort of discipline for hips and thighs. Pretties to aid and abet: long-legged panty girdles to comfortably coax and wheedle you into the willowy-wand shape that's needed."

The dress on the left has a flounce skirt in a printed wool/orlon jersey. The dress, by California Girl, sold for $30 (about $228 today) was sold at Hahne & Co., Newark, and Haggarty's, Los Angeles. Her long necklace is by D'Arlan.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Youthcraft panty girdle with red stripes on white and a Madenform cotton bra.

The solid red dress on the right by Jonathan Logan is in wool crepe. This dress sold for $15 (about $115 today) and was available at Lord & Taylor, May Co., and The Broadway. She wears a Coro necklace.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Jantzen panty girdle of nylon and Lastex with a Jantzen cotton bra.

I hope you've enjoyed this series of articles. Remember, these photos all came from Seventeen magazine - so proper foundation garments were expected to be worn by young girls, not just grown women. Can you imagine wearing a girdle to high school?

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #3

Today's focus is on smooth hips required when wearing a dress with a lowered waist. "Shimmy bodices that drop their waists down to hip-level...or lower, then meet rippling, flounced skirts. The silhouette-makers needed: hip-firming girdles, rounded bras."

The dress on the left has a gathered flared skirt below a dropped waist. It is by Youth Fair and sold for $15 in 1958 (about $112 today). It sold at Abraham & Strauss, Brooklyn and Rich's, Atlanta. The model wears a Castlecliff pin on her collar.

Under this dress, she is wearing a Hollywood Vassarette open bottom girdle with double panels of power net at the back and sides and a front V-shaped panel of nylon satin overlaid with point d'esprit lace. The Hollywood Vassarette bra is in nylon with lace cups.

The dress on the right by Teena Paige has a dropped waist, permanent pleated skirt and a sailor collar. It sold for $18 (about $135 today) and was available at Altman's, New York and Macy's, San Francisco. The model wears a Castlecliff pin on the collar.

Under this dress, the model is wearing a Peter Pan panty girdle of nylon power net woven in elastic stripes. The Peter Pan cotton bra has contour cups.

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #2

Continuing the series on the correct foundation garments, today we have two party dresses from 1958. The focus on today's spread is the tiny waist needed with fuller skirts. "Take a look at the luscious, jewel-toned dresses. See how their sculptured bodices and dome-shaped skirts show off your middle? They call, obviously, for a trim mid-section of your own."

The green satin dress on the left is a "princess sculptured" dress with self-fabric roses at the neckline and hem by Parklane, which was offered at Franklin Simon, New York and Jordan Marsh, Boston. The dress sold for about $30 ($225 today).

Under the green dress, the model is wearing a Formaid of Boston torso bra that molds from bosom to hips. With that, she wears a Saramac petticoat. Note that the petticoat has a flat panel from waist to hips and the long-line bra is worn over it.

The blue jacquard dress on the right has a "closely carved bodice and dome skirt that opens in a back pleat". This dress is by Carol Rodgers and sold for about $13 ($97 today). This dress was available at Burdine's, Miami and Altman's, New York. The skirt of this dress likely has the stiff Pellon interfacing, as the model is not wearing a crinoline under it.

Under the blue dress, the model is wearing a Sarong Two nylon girdle that trims the waist with a high elastic waistband. Crisscross front with open bottom gives walking ease. Power net sides and satin elastic back. She is also wearing a Perma-lift strapless cotton contour bra.

The Correct Foundation Garments for 1950s Dresses #1

If you've ever purchased a vintage dress and wondered why it doesn't fit correctly, maybe you're not wearing the proper foundation garments. Prior to the late 1960's, clothing was styled and cut with the understanding that women would be wearing girdles and shapers underneath. In the October 1958 Seventeen magazine, there is a wonderful editorial spread photographed by Frencesco Scavullo that illustrates what type of foundation garments work best with several dress styles. I'll be featuring the photos and information from this spread this week.

The magazine is referring to these as "shaft dresses" (never heard that term before). "Newest shape for a shaft to take - the high-rise Empire waist, which looks prettiest over a softly rounded bosom, asks just supple control from there down."

The red dress is by Lanz in a lined rayon crepe. See that band across the bust? The magazine calls this a "bosom yoke" and it drops to a V-neck with a bow in the back. The dress was about $40 (about $298 today), and was sold at Bonwit Teller, New York, Vandervoort's, St. Louis, and The Crescent, Spokane. The model is wearing red DeLiso Debs shoes.

Under the red dress, the model is wearing a Formfit nylon bra with circle-stitched lace cups and a Formfit nylon elastic net panty girdle with a wide waistband and satin elastic vertical stretch panels front and back.

The model on the right in the top photo is wearing a blue wool jersey "shaft dress" by Jerry Greenwald. The front is gathered into a satin band at the Empire waist. In back, the dress is slit from V necline to hem, revealing a satin underslip. This dress also sold for about $40 and was available at Saks Fifth Avenue. That's a long, skinny brooch by Castlecliff pinned to the center of the satin band and the shoes are by Capezio.

Under the blue dress, the model is wearing a Lovable "lightweight all-in-one for a long, slim line with easy control." Made of Helance nylon yarn with embroidered cotton broadcloth cups. This appears to be an open-bottom style.

1958 Simplicity Pattern Ad

With all the interest lately in vintage patterns and sewing, I thought you'd like to see an ad for Simplicity Patterns from the October 1958 Seventeen magazine I've been posting about. Featured here is Simplicity pattern 2687.

The ad copy states, "You can see the admiration in his eyes...your dress is terrific! And when you tell him you made it yourself, he'll be even prouder.

Sewing is such a wonderful way to have the color, the fabric, the style that does the most for you. (The kind of clothes men notice.) And you can expect even your first dress to turn out perfectly with Simplicity Printed Patterns. They're marked piece by piece with such easy-to-follow directions, it's like having an expert to help you at every step.

What fun to have a divine new dress for every dance without feeling extravagant! And there are hundreds of Simplicity styles to choose from. You'd hardly believe it, but both dresses here are made from the same Simplicity Pattern, No. 2687."

All I have to say is, "Yes, Virginia, butt bows did exist before the 1980's!

1958 Jonathan Logan Dress

Here is another ad from the October 1958 Seventeen magazine. What girl wouldn't want to wear this to all her holiday dances and parties? Jonathan Logan is a favorite label of mine. I find his dresses quite frequently, which leads me to believe that his dresses were considered special enough to save for years.

The ad copy says, "Pure enchantment...in pure silk faille. The demure back-buttoned jacket hides a decolletee dress that swoops out prettily from a tiny waist. Green, blue, black, red. $29.95" The ad also states that the dress was available at Lord & Taylor, so you know this was a high quality label in the 50's. $29.95 in 1958 equates to about $225 today.

The model is wearing a matching bandeaux hat with a green bow on the top of the head. The dress has a matching sash type belt with a large round fabric covered buckle. The waist length bolero jacket has a V notch at the front hem and a Peter Pan collar. It buttons up the back. The model is wearing black patent kitten heels in the original photo. And I'm sure there is a stiff crinoline under that dress, although it is not overly full so the pleats hold their shape.

I think I've sold this dress in black before. I wish I could find it again. But you can get the look with this emerald green party dress available at www.coutureallure.com.

1958 Coats by Shag-Glow

Continuing our perusal of the October 1958 Seventeen magazine, here is an ad for Shag-Glow coats. The ad copy reads, "The Long and Short of it, Luxurious Shag-Glow Coats, You'll love the genuine comfort and soft warmth of these coats...made of the finest 100% pure wool fabric. Moth proofed for the life of the garment. Long about $35 - Short about $25. Colors: Burnt Orange, Winter Sea Green, Burnt Yellow."



$35 in 1958 is about $261 today. $25 in 1958 is about $187 today, so these would be considered nicer quality coats. Shag-Glow was a label put out by Hampshire Fashions on 7th Avenue in New York. The "Faribo Woolen Fabric" was an exclusive fabric by Faribault Woolen Mills.



These are simply styled day coats, worn in this photo with matching hats and gloves. I love the color names, although they look simply orange, turquoise, and brown to me! All three coats have raglan sleeves, the orange with a deeper dolman armhole. They have simple collars buttoned all the way up. The orange coat has a curved pocket and a half belt buttoned on at the sides. The brown coat has a vertical welted pocket.



Want the look? Here is a similar coat at Couture Allure on EBay.